Welcome To The
Pillsbury
Softasilk Cake Flour
Flour Test
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Disclaimer
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Before we get into the test, it's worth mentioning that we are not
connected with any flour vendor mentioned on this web site. We can't tell you
where to find any of these flours outside our own home town, and we have no
idea why the vendor discontinued your favorite flour, or why your favorite
recipe is no longer on the back of the package. And now... here's the review
of this flour.....
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Where we bought it:
the local grocery store - it's everywhere!
What we paid for it:
$2.49 for a 2 pound box (ouch!)
Protein content:
6.6 (no, that's not a typo or error - cake flour has low protein levels, in a
cake gluten is a bad thing)
Interesting Vendor Story:
Nope, not this time.
Our first impressions:
It's WHITE! It's a SOFT flour. And it's WHITE! It makes a SOFT weak dough.
And
did we mention it's WHITE?
Any special reason we're testing this flour:
Again and again, I've been told you just can't make good bread with cake flour.
I took that as a challenge. Please note - this isn't supposed to be a bread
flour. It's a cake flour, and I've made many fine cakes with it.
Some special comments -
As you read this, please try to keep it down to about three "Doh"'s and two
"WHAT WAS HE THINKING?"'s. Yeah, this was not one of the brighter things I've
done, but I hadda do it. It was a challenge. Also, please understand that it
IS a good flour - just not a good BREAD flour. If a sprinter enters a
marathon, chances are the sprinter won't do well. The sprinter has trained to
go like blazes for 100 yards, not to run for 20 miles. That isn't to say a
sprinter is "better" or "worse" than a marathon runner. They are both well
trained athletes competing in demanding sports. Similarly, this flour was used
for a purpose for which it was not intended or trained, and it did the best it
could.
How'd we screw up the tests
this
time?
Other than using a flour that was totally unsuited to bread making? It was
pretty smooth sailing this time.
Conclusions:
Tasteless. Bad crumb. They were right... it is, at best, difficult to make
bread with cake flour.
The Breads
Bohemian Rye
The Bohemian Rye was picture looks like it had
some oven spring. It didn't. It had oven spread.
I didn't slash it... it just slid
apart and looked like that. It's an attactive loaf. Perhaps the most
attractive loaf in this test. The bread has a fairly open crumb with irregular
small to medium sized holes. It is a dense bread with lots of caraway in its
aroma. The bottom crust, despite being quite dark, is still soft and flexible
and is free of the caramelization taste notes that usually accompany a dark
crust. The crumb is very soft with a good rye and caraway taste. However, the
bread, despite being baked to a good temperature, had a mouthfeel that made me
think it hadn't been baked long enough. The crumb was quite moist. The crumb
had a nice sour after-taste, though that was less noticeable in the first
taste. While I won't throw it away, it won't be a favorite. How unfavorite?
Well, this is the first time I didn't finish the test slice of bread. Perhaps
I should have baked a cake instead.
Ciabatta
is usually one of my favorite breads.
This time it was just wierd. The very
ends browned a bit, but
the top and bottom were white. The top of the loaf had
a very smooth/waxy look that made me think of a bad plastic toy that was in the
sun too long and melted a bit. The crust was thin, somewhat crisp, and a bit
chalky. The crumb was irregular with small to medium sized holes, and was
fairly open. The crumb's aroma was largely sour with no wheat notes. The
smell promised little, and that's what the crumb delivered. I usually dip
ciabatta in olive oil. Not this time... it would have been a waste of good
olive oil.
Sourdough Pan Bread -
I've made this bread many, many times,
but I've never seen it come out so
strange.
The bread didn't brown at all. It was so white, it looked like it
had been whitewashed. And when I sliced the bread, it fell apart. The words
"cake-like crumb" come to mind. The aroma was very neutral with just a hint of
sourdough presence. This is odd, as this is usually a very sour bread from
aroma to taste. The crust was soft, thick, flexible and somewhat chewy. It
was also white. It hadn't browned at all. The crumb was soft, somewhat
chewey, and tight with very few and mostly small holes in it. The taste was an
odd mixture of light wheat, sour, and chaulk. Not a favorite. And, again, a
slice I didn't finish.
Three stage French bread -
While this bread didn't fall apart as much as the Simple
Sourdough Pan Bread, there was a good bit of crust separation
and the crumb was crumbly. Unlike the sourdough pan bread, there
was some browning on this loaf. The crust was thick and chewy, with no
crispness or caramelized flavor notes to it. The crumb was tight, soft, and
dense with few holes. The crumb had a hint of sour taste to it, but little
else in the way of flavor. You'll be amazed to read I didn't finish my slice.
Final conclusions -
I've changed my mind. I AM throwing this away. Life is too short to eat bad
bread. I only regret that I didn't make cakes with this flour. This test was
a regrettable waste of good cake flour. What would I do differently next time?
I could mix some vital wheat gluten, ascorbic acid, and malt extract with the
cake flour. Or, I could just use a flour that was designed to make bread
instead. Yeah, that last one, that sounds like a winner!
Hydration Pictures
As discussed, we took pictures at 60, 80, and 100% hydration. The Softasilk
doughs remained considerably wetter than most flours at all hydrations.
Pillsbury
Cake Flour
at 100% hydration
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Pillsbury
Cake Flour
at 80% Hydration
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Pillsbury
Cake Flour
at 60% hydration
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